Eze is a medieval village perched at the top of a mountain and looking down upon the deep blue waters of the Cote D’Azur in France. At around 30 minutes from Nice airport by taxi, and sitting just west of Cap Ferrat, Eze is easy to get to but feels a world away from the hustle and bustle of the Cote D’Azur.
Your taxi will drop you at the reception, which sits at the entrance of this enchanting village. This is where you leave your bags. You’ll then be directed up some steps, through an archway, and along a winding mass of medieval alleyways that take you past jaw-dropping vistas and finally to your destination – the Chateau Eza.
Style & Character
Staying in Chateau Eza is like living in a fairytale from a bygone age. The reception of the hotel is through a tiny arched doorway to one side of yet another windy cobblestone path. You will check in inside this teeny, tiny cave-like room before being led to your accommodation further down one of the historic passageways. The whole hotel is spread among this seemingly endless maze of passageways.
Our room was down a few steps and then up another flight of pretty steps, leading us to an impressively thick, bolted, and arched door that looked like it was borrowed from an ancient church. Inside the room, it was like Rapunzel’s turret, with dark oak walls and luxurious thick rugs framed by parquet floors. The centerpiece was an enormous fireplace, set up and ready to light. A creamy marble bathroom with a shower looked directly out across the bay and was completed with a generous array of sweet lemony L’Occitane toiletries. I have stayed in many luxury hotels but have never stayed in a hotel with such amazing views. Being able to enjoy these views while having a shower was magical.
Our room also had a south-facing window that opened up onto a petite balcony, just large enough for a table and two chairs. From the balcony, the dizzyingly high views spanned right from Nice in the distance, over the entire of Cap Ferrat, and then out to sea. The balcony was so very high. My husband happily sat out all afternoon tapping away on his laptop, inspired by the mesmerizing backdrop. I, however found the fact that helicopters were flying past below me slightly unnerving and better enjoyed from the chaise longe inside!
Food & Drink
The breakfast spread at Chateau Eza was impressive and served by the wonderful staff. We had the American, which included an egg option – we chose scrambled egg which was accompanied by superb sausages and crisped bacon. In addition, there was a continental platter with excellent cheeses, meats, a delicious fruit salad (which I loved despite normally having a strong aversion to fruit), and an array of lovely pastries, all of which were served to our table.
The Bar area in Chateau Eza was a stone-clad room with an enormous fireplace and a romantic ambiance. A separate indoor area was made available solely to guests of the hotel. This cozy room offered a large balcony, giving guests yet another opportunity to take in the vista below. In the summer, a selection of terraces invites patrons to spend an evening on comfy sofas, enjoying a drink or two with the incredible view once again providing the backdrop.
While we stayed we enjoyed an evening in the gourmet restaurant at Chateau Eze. We dined in the indoor glass-edged room which boasts 180° panoramic views right out to Nice. The views are once again extraordinary. In the very distance, you could see the planes circling and landing at Nice airport, (you could even see the runway lights!). More immediately below, Cap Ferrat sat sparkling into the night. The food was equally breathtaking with a well-deserved Michelin Star. The “Degustation Menu” started with a delicious Red Mullet fillet “Ratatouille” followed by Pan-fried scallops with a lemon flavor that tasted like a slice of sunshine. This was followed by lobster, a lemon granite and the main was a beautifully presented veal dish. Perhaps my favorite course was the pre-desert which was a crunchy apple dessert that tasted more appley than apples. The meal was finished with a poached pear desert in a chocolate shell that looked like a chocolate mushroom, balanced on the plate with a vanilla caramel accompaniment – a dessert that looked to be rich and heavy but turned out to be so light and fruity. I could have eaten two of them! The atmosphere in the restaurant was relaxed, romantic, and charming. The staff were superb, offering great descriptions of the dishes in a variety of languages. It really was one of those unmissable evenings, the highlight of my visit to Eza.
With only 12 rooms, Chateau Eza is a deeply loved hotel with caring staff who clearly take pride in the excellent service they provide. The rooms are unique and deeply historic, the food is fabulous, and the views are almost unbelievable. You’ll never stay anywhere else quite like this. It’s a one-of-a-kind hotel. I would insist that any visit to Cote D’Azur is not complete without a couple of nights at the top of the magical Eza.
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